dermaviduals® Sun Care Information and Products
by Andrea Oismueller
Things needed for true sun protection.
Facts:
High SPF values cannot be achieved without chemical filters.
Zinc Oxide is incompatible with triglycerides in the presence of water.
Titanium dioxide can generate free radicals.
How the UV filters work:
Light protection filters work in different ways. Mineral filters scatter and reflect the light. Pigments in the make-up applied over sunscreen can also contribute to the protection of the skin. Depending on the composition, the factors range between about 1 and 4. Mineral filters such as titanium dioxide remain on the skin's surface. They are particularly suitable for children and sick (permeable) skin. Depending on their structure, chemical filters made of organic substances can have considerable penetration rates, which can also lead to irritation or allergic side effects.
Iron pigments from the make-up or from the environment (dust) have a negative effect on the skin because they produce free radicals together with UV light. Many sunscreens contain complexing agents such as EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) to prevent that from occurring. However, as we have learned in Corneotherapy, EDTA is an endocrine and barrier disruptor.
UV-Index:
The self-protection time is not always the same for everyone, it depends on many factors:
Time of day: at midday, the sun at the beach and the radiation intensity is naturally at its highest. In summer, the time difference due to daylight savings time must be considered.
Seasons
Sea level: the radiation intensity increases with elevation; the self-protection time decreases. A sufficiently high sun protection factor is therefore always necessary for stays in the Alps.
Reflective environment: snow, light-colored sand, and shiny water bottles reduce self-protection time because they reflect the radiation instead of absorbing it.
Most of this information has been taken from dermaviduals® and Corneotherapy – the link between dermatology and cosmetics publications. We hope that this book will be available in English in 2023.
It is one of a kind and a wealth of information. I can not wait for it to be available in the US market for you.
Andrea Oismueller
Why dermaviduals®US doesn’t have the SPF amount on the labels
The SPF products comply with the European Commission Recommendation for a high level of protection; therefore, it is permitted to include the SPF amount on the label in the European Union and other parts of the world. However, some of the SPF active ingredients used in our dermaviduals® SPF products have not been previously used or registered in the United States; therefore, we are not permitted to label SPF on our containers. Testing of the ingredients must be done in the US to be recognized. This is a very expensive and time consuming process.
“In addition to the fact that SPF indicating creams must be registered in the US by paying registration fees, it should be mentioned that the UV filters which are allowed to be used by the FDA are usually old-fashioned ones that do not have the efficacy and the skin tolerance of the modern ones (triazone and triazine) in our products. That’s why some of them cannot be used for the registering process as far as I know.”
There are over 1,000s of ingredients that are forbidden to be used in cosmetics in the European Union, which are permitted in the US. The FDA and the European Union have started to work together in some respects so perhaps the US will soon recognize the European standards for testing.
This is a great search engine for looking up ingredients: https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/
The SPF ingredients in the dermaviduals® products are in bold below.
Day Cream Plus SPF 30
To protect the skin from UVA and UVB radiation
Fast penetrating matte cream for face and body.
Composition: The Day Cream Plus SPF 30 contains DMS components & sun protection filters against UVA and UVB radiation.
INCI: Aqua (Water), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diisopropyl Adipate, Glycerin, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Methylpropanediol, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Phenyl Benzimidazole Sulfonate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ceramide NP, Squalane, Sclerotium Gum, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxyethylcellulose, T-Butyl Alcohol
Properties: dermaviduals® Day Cream Plus SPF 30 complies with the European Commission Recommendation for a high level of protection. The UVA factor amounts to at least 1/3 of the UVB factor. Creams with SPF 30 provide about 96.7 % protection from UVB radiation. In other words, compared to not using any protection, using creams with SPF 30 allows you to stay in the sun 30 times longer before erythema (sun burn) will develop. Since the thermal radiation of the sun (infrared) is quite stressful for the skin, it is recommended to expose the skin in moderation even with sunscreen. Excessive sun exposure is a serious health threat. Particularly, babies and toddlers should not be exposed to direct sunlight.
Application: Apply the cream before exposure to the sun and let it absorb into the skin. It is recommended to reapply the cream on dry skin regularly to maintain protection, especially after sweating or swimming. If you do not apply enough cream, you are less protected, so it is recommended to use as much sun cream as you need to achieve the labeled SPF of 30.
DAY CREAM PLUS SPF 30 PROPERTIES AND USES
Day Cream S SPF 50
To protect the skin from UVA and UVB radiation
Fast penetrating matte cream for face and body.
Composition: The Day Cream S SPF 50 contains DMS components and sun protection filters against UVA and UVB radiation.
INCI: Aqua (Water), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diisopropyl Adipate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Sodium Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Pentylene Glycol, Squalane, Ceramide NP, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Sclerotium Gum, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxyethylcellulose, T-Butyl Alcohol
Properties: dermaviduals® Day Cream S SPF 50 complies with the European Commission Recommendation for a high level of protection. The UVA factor amounts to at least 1/3 of the UVB factor. Creams with SPF 50 provide about 98% protection from UVB radiation. In other words, compared to not using any protection, using creams with SPF 50 allows you to stay in the sun 50 times longer before erythema (sun burn) will develop. Since the thermal radiation of the sun (infrared) is quite stressful for the skin, it is recommended to expose the skin in moderation even with sunscreen. Excessive sun exposure is a serious health threat. Particularly, babies and toddlers should not be exposed to direct sunlight.
Application: Apply the cream before exposure to the sun and let it absorb into the skin. It is recommended to reapply the cream on dry skin regularly to maintain protection, especially after sweating or swimming. If you do not apply enough cream, you are less protected, so it is recommended to use as much sun cream as you need to achieve the labeled SPF of 50.
DAY CREAM S SPF 50 PROPERTIES AND USES